Odometer around 75k, what should I be aware of?

[neilc]

My 2005 k1200r is up to 75,000kms, and is serviced regularly, every 5000k.

I ride it 30ks to work each day, 60 a round trip, on a straight highway

Recently I had the rear bearings and seals go that caused it to be off the road for about 6 weeks waithing for parts!

Apart from the post I made a minute earlier about the bike creeping under brakes when stationary, I'd like to know what major issues I should be aware off as far as preventive maintenace goes on the k12r with this sort of milage?

I don't want to be bikeless for another long period after such an incident if possible.

What should I have checked or replaced now or shortly, apart from what's mentioned in the manual I mean? Anyone had an issues?

Thanks

[Bernardo]

Hi Neil

Very good mileage, congratulations!

If you have all the services acording to BMW schedule, is possible you don't need more than that, perhaps you can spend few bucks on your dealer to check some parts that could be affected with water or moisture, like:
- dogbones - rear suspension.
- check all the rubber seals: rear end oil seal, caliper cylinder seals (cylinders).
- Check battery amperage, be sure it has a good discharge (for example put 2 highbeam lamps in paralel connection - approx 12 amp, must have bright light after 20 or 30 secs.).
-Change of brake fluid, check brake pads.
- Check rubber tubes,(coolant and fuel), must have no external cracks.

But also is true, Murphy has the reason, the broken piece is the n+1 checked

[neilc]

OK thanks, I can do that and some myself. Just wondering if any one had an major failures that could have been preveneted if warnings were posted, I guess like the cam belt.

[scrannel]

You mentioned cam (chain): Not to sound like a broken record... I would make sure you have a jump guard installed. With a KR it's a very simple job.

[kpavey]

You should get the shock oils changed. Front will need a bleed hole tapped in the body to do so. New seals as well.
Front ball joints could be getting loose and sloppy. Usually the bike will weave at low speed if so. These are fiddly and require a number of odd sized tools to remove. May be easier to remove the fork and get the dealer to remove/refit.
Oil pump chain and camchain could be getting quite stretched by now, you'll see it in the tensioner adjustments for both. If you're doing the jump guard you can combine it. Depending on year a complete set of upper/lower crank/cam sprockets and chain is probably the best course of action, plus the guard.
Assume you've done the usual coolant and plug changes. Cheers

[Bross71760]

I have 50k miles on 2005 k1200s. Noticed clutch lever started acting up. Got worse. Decided to tear it apart and found the clutch master cylinder spring had broken. The spring parts managed to scratch the cylinder walls and damage the plunger. My advice, if you flush clutch fluid, replace spring...

[neilc]

Thanks gents al good advice so far

[Bernardo]

Hi Bross , welcome to the forum and thanks for the advice

[Bross71760]

I also replaced front rotors at 50k miles due to wear. BMW dealer told me my pads were low at last maintenance but never said anything about rotors getting low. Thankfully I have a micrometer (?) I think that's what they're called. They were down to wear limits. Have always used BMW oem pads.

[neilc]

I'd like to do a price comparo and see if it's worth buying parts locally or online. I'll get a price for a disc locally and see if I can get some of you guys to price the same art?

[kpavey]

Neil - another true blue Aussie - woo hoo

Last I priced a genuine disc in Melbourne it was about $630AUD... I do have a genuine front set I have had professionally reground in my spares which if you're desperate we could discuss further. Finding a low mileage set on the fleece bay is another option, or going aftermarket (EBC etc). Maybe you were just using that as an example and don't need any?

I've ordered quite a few parts from Cotswold Motorrad in the UK. Alex there is great to deal with and prices a lot more reasonable than through Aussie dealers. Whoever did the pricing in BMW Australia assumed about 50c AUD to 1 USD it seems...

As you are Sydney based Teknik Motorsports can sort your shocks whether they be ESA or not and drop in Ohlins pistons as an upgrade. Nick's a good guy with a pretty quick turnaround. Cheers.

[neilc]

Thanks kp, your right I don't need immediately to replace the disc.After the last bill I'm thinking of sourcing my own parts for larger type repairs. Both to save time and dollars. Hope that price wasn't for one disc?

Neil

[neilc]

Replacing front rotors. Is this simply dropping the front wheel, undoing the rotors from the wheel and sensor rings? Currently not with the bike so can't check with what fasteners are fitted?

thansk

[Bernardo]

Hi Neil

About your question, look at this interesting thread:
"front disc brakes" viewtopic.php?f=3&t=18043

[kpavey]

Replacing front rotors. Is this simply dropping the front wheel, undoing the rotors from the wheel and sensor rings? Currently not with the bike so can't check with what fasteners are fitted?

thansk

Sad but true, yes that was PER disc...

To get out the front wheel, you'll first need to loosen (but not remove) the calliper bolts and front axle bolt, then support the bike under the headers most likely unless you have a front stand, then remove the callipers first then the front axle bolt. You sound like you don't have a Reprom CD, see to that I suggest. If yo remove the axle before the callipers you will mark the wheel...

Cheers, KP

[neilc]

Thanks gents, where's the best place to get tat cd? A dealer or eBay?